Sunday 11 December 2016

Getting in the mood for Christmas


Cottage door in Headley


Well, as usual south-east England is doing a great job of disappointing me on the weather score.

Last week we had a few frosts and foolishly I started to imagine that winter had in fact arrived at long last. But here we are this week, back to temperatures in the mid teens - grey, muggy and annoying. Just damp enough to ruin your hair without being wet enough to warrant an umbrella.

So it is difficult to fire up enthusiasm for the approaching Yuletide festivities. Nonetheless I am giving it a good shot.


Window shopping in the laneways of Richmond


Our first Christmas activity was attending the Victorian Christmas Fair at one of my favourite Surrey attractions, the Watts Gallery and Artists' Village in Compton.

There was a variety of activities but mainly aimed at families and children, so we didn't linger for too long but it was our first opportunity to take a look at Limnerslease, the home of painter and sculptor G F Watts and his artist wife Mary Fraser-Tytler, which was only restored and opened to the public about a year ago.

The house is nestled in woodland - such a magical location - and is a tribute to the Arts & Crafts movement, to which the pair were great contributors. 

Sadly we just missed a reading by none other than the wonderful Penelope Keith, who is a lifelong Surrey resident and a great supporter of the Watts Gallery. We arrived just as she was saying her goodbyes to a group of people, but we were impressed by her youthfulness (she's 76 but looks like she's in her mid 60s at most) and her modest travel arrangements. No driver or fancy big car for her, not even a Range Rover which you might expect of somebody who resides on a spacious Surrey pile and who for many years was the star of To The Manor Born

No, she drove herself to the gig in her tiny little Kia Picanto, and offered one of the staff a lift back to the main gallery just down the road.






A Victorian-era Father Christmas entertains the children with stories


Penelope Keith's modest mode of transport




At work (where I continue to work 12-hour days, making life pretty ordinary, to say the least) I am already suffering through the rounds of Christmas lunches, Secret Santas and novelty Christmas jumper days. Bah, humbug!

Because I work for two separate teams this means double the misery.

Don't get me wrong, I actually love Christmas but I have always dreaded the office Christmas party where you're supposed to cosy up with people you wouldn't necessarily choose to spend time with unless somebody was paying you. 

Fortunately I like most of the people I'm currently enslaved with, but Secret Santa is awful and no amount of well-meant £5-and-under tokenism can change my mind on that. Lame gag gifts, horrid toiletries that are not cruelty-free... it saps my strength to smile through this 'team building' process. 

One of the bright spots in the calendar however has been the Christmas lunch with my former colleagues at the Australian Trade & Investment Commission. I took a day off work this past week to attend.



Groovy mid 20th century Scandi-style lighting at MIldred's in Soho


My group of former colleagues has an usually large proportion of vegetarians and vegans, so once again our lunch was held at a vegetarian restaurant - this time Mildred's in Soho, where my farewell was held in May. The lunch was a combination Christmas celebration and goodbye to my former boss and his wife, as their posting is now at an end after four years.

As usual we enjoyed excellent food, complemented very well by the several bottles of 1998 Wynn's Coonawarra 'Michael' Shiraz that David and Carolyn brought along. 

I think we all felt it was the end of an era; as a team we really like and respect each other enormously. Although I hated every minute of the commuting and didn't like the heavy finance focus of my role there, I truly miss the people and David is definitely my favourite boss of all time, not least because we share an obsessive interest in music. David's a few years older than me but essentially we hung out at the same kinds of gigs in the late 70s and early 80s - he in Canberra, me in Sydney. 

Many an animated conversation was had during my time in the office, remembering various obscure punk bands that nobody else had ever heard of, and weighing up the merits of the many and varied incarnations of Paul Weller and Bernard Sumner.

So lunch was a lot of fun, but quite sad too.






Prior to lunch I took the opportunity to wander around London to take a look at the Christmas decorations, down Regent Street and along Carnaby Street, exploring the surrounding laneways.



All you need is Love... on Carnaby Street


Robins, hearts & stars on Kingley Street


Modern Christmas elegance in Newburgh Street


Decorations in Kingley Court, just off Carnaby Street


A highlight was the glories of Anthropologie, a place that makes me want to race around the store shouting 'Beautiful things! Beautiful things!!!!' I spent a good 40 minutes ooh-ing and aah-ing over the quirky loveliness of this amazing store.


The fabulous planted wall that runs from basement to top-floor atrium
in Anthopologie's Regent Street store


Baaaaa!






So many beautiful things...


Kevin took the train into town after work and we met up in Bedlam, I mean Piccadilly Circus, to take a look at the lights along Regent and Oxford Streets. 

Many years ago I happened to be in London just before Christmas and I swore I'd never return to Oxford Street at that time of year. It's hellish enough during tourist season but the Christmas throng is enough to push you over the edge. I have absolutely no patience with people who stop in the middle of the pavement to take seventeen selfies, with no regard for the hundreds of people trying to make their way along the street.

Still, London has really made an effort this year with the lights.


Angels on Regent Street


Braving the Christmas shopping hordes at Piccadilly Circus

An error of judgement on my part saw us waste about an hour trudging around Hyde Park at the gigantic cess-pool of fairground cheapness known as 'Winter Wonderland'.

Winter it was definitely not, at 14ºC. Nor was it what I'd call a wonderland, unless you were looking for a wonderland of crap. Eat your heart out, Blackpool - you've been well and truly trumped by this world-class collection of tat.

I had read a description that there were markets, ice skating and a big ferris wheel, all of which appealed to me. After queuing for about 15 minutes just to get through a bag-check process, we searched in vain for stalls with anything worth looking at. I couldn't face the prospect of a lengthy queue for the ferris wheel and the ice skating sessions were booked out. Horrible junk food only was on offer, so we high-tailed it out of there. Oh well - we know for next year not to bother! 



The sadly misnamed 'Winter Wonderland' in Hyde Park


A bit closer to home, we spent Saturday in Richmond. 



We try to get to Richmond Park a few times a year. It's only about a 30-minute drive from Epsom and aside from being a beautiful expanse of ancient woodland with incredible views over London, naturally we are drawn by the delights of the deer population. Hundreds of them roam free, as they have done since the mid 1600s.








This majestic fellow was taking it easy



Breaking in the new snow boots, for our trip to far north Norway at Christmas


This is the biggest of the Royal Parks in the capital, and the largest enclosed space in London. It's so big that, unusually for London, you actually feel like you're getting away from people. 

It's so easy to imagine King Henry VIII hunting through the park's woods. A large part of that is the trees - the knowledge that some of them are nearly 800 years old and were standing during the time of his reign... it's just incredible.

Look at the size of this tree!

And so after an hour or so of strolling the park we stopped at a nearby pub for lunch. 

One of the most enjoyable things about living in England is the opportunity to try so many different eating and drinking establishments. There is an endless supply of them and although we have developed a few favourites in our local area we're always keen to sample new environments.



Our lunch venue


The funky interior of The Black Horse

... and finally we rounded out the day by wandering around the streets of Richmond itself. We eagerly sampled the vegan brownies, the Belgian waffles and the coffee on sale at a market, and no trip to Richmond would be complete for me without popping in to the India Jane store.



Baubles galore in the fabulous India Jane store





This pottery studio faces directly out onto the Thames

Christmas lights in Richmond laneway


Some of you will recall last year's Christmas debacle - after flying to Helsinki and spending a lovely few days with friends I was too sick to travel on to Norway as planned, and we spent a miserable, grey, warm and lonely Christmas here in Epsom. 

This year we'll be in Arctic Norway with family - my first trip up to Finnmark, Norway's northernmost county and my father's birthplace, in more than 20 years.

It should be a really special experience. Up there the sun dipped below the horizon on 27 November and will not rise above it again until the middle of January. This period is known as the mørketiden - the dark time - and it's a socially vibrant period of the year when people go to great lengths to get through the challenges of perpetual night.

Could we be lucky enough to see the Aurora Borealis? Who knows. We're not counting on it - we'll consider it an amazing bonus if it happens. At the very least we'll enjoy spending time with my Aunt Rigmor, cousin Marion and her husband Erik and adult sons Jo Eirik and Jørn Henrik. 


The Northern Lights above the Varanger peninsula, where we'll be at Christmas
[Image courtesy of http://www.finnmarksbilder.no/aurora-borealis.html]


Stay tuned for news of our adventures in the frozen north.

Until next time,
- Maree  xo

Sunday 30 October 2016

Autumn -and- Arundel

Rows of autumn splendour at Cowdray Estates, West Sussex


At last it's here. Or not.

As this blog post will show, autumn has indeed arrived in south-east England - at least in terms of colours. However I am still miserably awaiting autumn weather. Here we are, about to head into November, and every day we have temperatures in the mid-to-high teens, with overnight pretty much the same.

At least this week has seen a couple of foggy mornings, but honestly - I am so fed up with wearing the same summer / early autumn clothes, particularly after such a lengthy summer. Attention weather gods: Give us some goddamned frost! Send us some chilly days!



Winkworth Arboretum



Strawberry Tree at Winkworth Arboretum


Tunnels of... gold-green


A blaze of gold at Winkworth Arboretum


Belted Galloway on Ranmore Common, Dorking

Despite my dissatisfaction with the mercury we have been heading out to make the most of the autumn colour, both locally and slightly further afield.

Cooper beeches, maples, oaks, ash, sumachs and the occasional dazzling display of virginia creeper - I love them all. 



The parish church at Holmbury St Mary


The church tower, Holmbury St Mary


Autumn funghi at Leith Hill


Yes, folks - that's a mushroom - with Kevin's hand showing the scale


Being out and about in the beautiful Surrey countryside is helping me cope with the stresses of my current job because, yes folks, Maree has done it again - managed to find a job in an environment that was supposed to be low-stress, but it has turned out to be anything but.

I am working for a children's charity and although the people are very nice, I joined at a time of fairly major change. Within about a month of me starting the HR department had three people leave (one of whom was not replaced for two months, and another still hasn't been replaced), and another head off on five weeks' leave to get married. My boss also announced her resignation. As the only remaining full-time employee in a team of about 15 people I was burdened with picking up the slack. I'm a very team-oriented person and was more than happy to help out but after nearly three months of working 10, 11 and 12-hour days I have had enough.



The Five Arch Bridge at Painshill Park, Cobham




Treehouse at Painshill Park



'Mellow fruitfulness' - at Painshill Park



The view from The Gothic Temple, Painshill Park


The Ruined Abbey, Painshill Park


Last week I reached crisis point but after discussions with two of my bosses I'm hopeful things will now change - they have put in place some measures which have already relieved the pressure a little, so we'll see.

I was encouraged to take a couple of days off last week, to recharge the batteries, and as it's half-term (yes, Kevin is on holiday AGAIN) we decided to head down to the beautiful and historic market town of Arundel.


Arundel Castle looms over the town

This lovely West Sussex town is situated in the beautiful South Downs, on the River Arun. I'm sure it's charming in summer and spring too, but the glories of autumn were so impressive I think we picked the ideal time of year to visit.

Arundel Castle is renowned, and with good reason. It is seriously HUGE and looms over the town together with Arundel Cathedral.

Amazing history, beautiful countryside, cute little boutiques, antiques stores, eateries, incredible walking trails... this place has got the lot. It's only about 30km from Brighton and 16km from Chichester, which my readers will remember from a few blog posts ago.



About to start the Arundel Park Walk
[photo by Kevin Joy]












Pretty pastel houses just one street back from the River Arun


How's this for a portico and front door?


We stayed in a little self-contained Air B&B cottage, situated in the garden of a 500-year-old thatched, box-framed Tudor cottage in Wepham - a small hamlet about five minutes' drive outside Arundel.

So quiet, great views and a cocker spaniel puppy - it was a lovely spot with a large, rambling garden and an ancient well. 

We do constantly wonder where these people get their money to be able to afford such properties... do they all have gigantic mortgages and never expect to pay them off completely? Are they all in high-paying city jobs? Did they inherit?



Looking back towards the town of Arundel from Burpham


Our Air B&B accommodation - The Garden Room in Wepham


Our accommodation was part of Thomas Cottage -
a 500-year-old thatched, box-framed Tudor cottage


Our accommodation came complete with Cocker Spaniel puppy


The cottage next-door


We took our time ambling down to Arundel, taking the scenic route through the South Downs.

Arriving mid afternoon, after checking in at the cottage we just mooched around Arundel, looking at the antiques stores and beautiful houses, visiting the tourist information centre and planning a full program of exploration for the following day.


Avenues of gold in Arundel


On top of Arundel Park, high above the town


Hiorne Tower, constructed in 1790

Door in Hiorne Tower - see the next photo for detail

This door was made for repelling enemies - yikes!





The sun came out briefly, illuminating the autumn foliage
[photo by Kevin Joy]


After a leisurely breakfast we happily did about six hours of walking on Friday.

First we took a circular route that ran from the castle to Swanbourne Lake through beautiful woodland, then up a fairly steep climb to Arundel Park which sits above the town, and back down through the town to the castle.

Then we spent three hours exploring the castle and its amazing grounds. We were fortunate to be catching the last of the summer blooms as well as the colours of autumn.



The Courtyard, Arundel Castle
[photo by Kevin Joy]


Just look at those colours!
[photo by Kevin Joy]


The Keep, Arundel Castle




The view from The Keep, Arundel Castle


View from The Keep over the town, with the River Arun in the background


Kevin in the Collector Earl's Garden, Arundel Castle

Arbour in The Collector Earl's Garden


Last of the dahlias in The Collector Earl's Garden, Arundel Castle
(with Cathedral Church of Our Lady and St Philip Howard behind)


The Dancing Crown Fountain inside Oberon's Palace, Arundel Castle
- the crown is supported solely by a jet of water, and it spins around as if by magic!




Whilst I am hoping not to be living in the London borough of Epsom indefinitely it really is a fantastic location - we are in reach of so many beautiful places, within an hour or two of driving. Will we ever run out of gorgeous towns to visit? It seems not. We've been here well over two years now and there is still plenty to discover.








Until next time,
- Maree  xo