Arts & Crafts Heaven in West Sussex

Ebonised rush chair, William Morris Bachelor's Button wallpaper

Last weekend I had time to myself, Kevin having defied my lifelong ban on all things Spanish by travelling to Mallorca for a cycling trip with friends. His argument was that this particular area has succeeded in 'nearly' banning bullfighting and therefore deserves to be rewarded by tourists continuing to visit the area. I'm not convinced. The day this wanton animal torture - sold as 'entertainment' to tourists - is abolished right across Spain, I will purchase a flight ticket.

Anyway, with nothing between me and the great open road (well, you would hesitate to describe the M25 thusly, but all the same...) on Saturday I decided to pootle over to well-to-do East Grinstead in the neighbouring county of West Sussex. The purpose was to revisit Standen, a National Trust property that I last saw in 2009.

 

This gorgeous property lies in heavily wooded and undulating terrain, and the last ten minutes of the journey had me getting that familiar feeling of excitement and good fortune - that I now live in such close proximity to such places. The villages of South Godstone and East Grinstead are idyllic with greens and ponds, pubs and cottages. The roads surrounding Standen are winding lanes embraced by hedgerows and great, towering trees.

The house itself was designed between 1891-1894 by architect Phillip Webb, a friend and contemporary of Arts and Crafts leading light William Morris, whose wallpapers, rugs and fabrics feature heavily in the design.

Tulips in full bloom on the conservatory side of the house

William Morris Trellis wallpaper

The conservatory

Cabinet with St George and the Dragon panel, painted by William Morris
(part of the De Morgan Collection);
Willow Bough wallpaper

Bedroom

As if that weren't enough, Standen is generously endowed with ornate touches such as the the fireplace fender in the dining room, and fine examples of Arts & Crafts silverware, glassware and pottery. 

The fireplace in the dining room - designed by the property's architect
Phillip Webb and featuring an ornate fender
(see this image courtesy Period Living for more detail)

Wine jug designed by Christopher Dresser in 1882

Brassware candelabra by W. A. S. Benson
Muffin dish by Charles Robert Ashbee
Hotplate and dishes by W. A. S. Benson

Hot water jug by W. A. S. Benson

But wait - there's more! 

If I wasn't already delirious with joy I would have positively burst with delight on discovering the numerous works by Pre Raphaelite artists such as Rossetti, Burne-Jones, Leighton, Madox Ford and Watts.

A Woman's Head by Pre Raphaelite artist Gabiel Dante Rosetti 

Della Robbia pottery

Portrait of a Boy by Henry Herbert La Thangue

I picked exactly the right time to visit in order to enjoy Spring in all its glory, but was wishing my friend Lesley Williams was with me to identify all the plants. The trees, particularly, are magnificent - magnolia, rhododendrons and fruit trees. As an added bonus, the tulips were in full bloom.

The barn, which houses the café

Fritillaries - spring's short-lived little chequered lanterns 

Hollybush Cottage at Standen

Being such a hilly area you can wander up stone steps past mature flowering trees and then marvel at the views across West Sussex.

The Kitchen Garden would be the envy of any gardener, with its centuries-old espaliered fruit trees, flourishing vegetables and a deluxe chicken coop. How lovely to see these girls being allowed to be chickens - able to dust-bathe, dig for grubs and socialise.

The Kitchen Garden includes a deluxe chicken coop 

There are several ancient espaliered apple trees in Standen's kitchen garden
- several are well over 100 years old

 One of Standen's two resident cats - this one was minding the second-hand bookstore
and was partial to a scratch

Proof positive that Spring is here - apple blossoms in the Kitchen Garden

My I'm-happy-to-be-in-this-beautiful-countryside face

A little treat to take home...

After several hours of revisiting Standen I treated myself to a pot of tea and a fruit scone in the café, and then reluctantly drove home. 

Is it really too much to ask to live somewhere like this? I don't need anything grand - just a tiny cottage would do. I'd spend my days gardening, walking, cooking, reading and cosseting rescued animals. I would make the world a better place.

 *sigh* 

Until next time,

- Maree  xo

A bigger bite of Tuscany

Sunset in Lecchi - the view from Casa di Lyndall

Having only recently visited Tuscany at the end of January, it was truly with a keen sense of anticipation that I returned just before Easter - this time with Kevin in tow. I couldn't wait to get back.

See my earlier post on Florence for the first 24 hours of this particular Italian jaunt. Florence is a place that quite rightly earns a separate blog entry.

But then we were collected from Florence's railway station by our friend Lyndall, with whom you will be familiar from my January post. At long last, Casa di Lyndall is all hers! It's been a tense couple of years with several trips back and forth between Australia and Italy, but the wait has been worth it - she now has a gorgeous house in Lecchi. 

Casa di Lyndall - deck and entry
(Photo: Lyndall Heddle)

Rustic and comfortable - living area of Casa di Lyndall
(Photo: Lyndall Heddle)

Fancy this view whilst doing the washing up?
Kitchen window - Casa di Lyndall
(Photo: Lyndall Heddle)

One of the elegant bedrooms of Casa di Lyndall
(Photo: Lyndall Heddle)

A gorgeous antique in the main bedroom at Casa di Lyndall
(Photo: Lyndall Heddle)

Landscaping to be finished by the end of April, but looking good - what views!

Kevin and I spent three nights as honoured first official guests in the house. It's perched on a hill at the edge of the village of Lecchi-in-Chianti which is a seriously cute little place, with only about 30 houses, two churches, a general store/cafe and a small restaurant that trades in the Spring/Summer seasons.

Periodically throughout the day the tolling of church bells wafts across the village, but other than the sound of the occasional car it's a blissfully peaceful location.

The hustle and bustle of Lecchi's main street

Lyndall has made connections all over Tuscany and particularly in her local area. Everywhere we went we were welcomed with a jaunty 'Ciao Lyndall!' and knew we'd be invited to partake of coffee, wine or something even stronger. I call this 'The Lyndall Factor'.

One morning the three of us were frantically busy with preparations for a housewarming lunch that Lyndall was hosting for about 20 people, and Kevin was dispatched down to the local store/café for salad and potatoes. 

Some considerable time later he returned, having been shanghaied into an espresso or two, and then a couple of shots of grappa, by a retired English judge who now spends part of the year in Lecchi. We'd met him and his wife a couple of nights before in the local restaurant, Lyndall having made their acquaintance a couple of days before. A night of frivolity and dancing to Earth Wind and Fire ensued back at Casa di Lyndall (our group having collected a German couple from the restaurant as well - more new friends!), so naturally Michael was happy to bump into Kevin. 

Hostess with the mostest - Lyndall preparing for the onslaught of guests to the Casa di Lyndall housewarming

Whilst staying in Lecchi we took the opportunity to explore a number of nearby towns such as Radda and Volpaia. More cobbled streets, more fabulous places to eat, more gorgeous little boutiques. What a region!

Radda's main square

Kevin checking out the cycling gear in Radda

What boutique is complete without a scooter?

The views from Radda

Sunset over Radda

Castello di Brolio, only a short drive from Lecchi.
It was here in 1872 that Baron Bettino Ricasoli first developed the formula for Chianti wine 
- 70% Sangiovese, 15% Canaiolo and 15% Malvasia bianca

Bar Ucci, in the lovely mediaeval fortified village of Volpaia

The cosy, family feel of Bar Ucci

Laughs with the owner of Bar Ucci, Paola - a real character!

Four kinds of pecorino from nearby Siena with accompanying local marmalades,
and that fabulous bruschetta!

And of course it was Kevin's first opportunity to see Siena. It would be an understatement to say he was not disappointed. We visited Lyndall's favourite bars and restaurants, and I marvelled afresh at the art and architecture of this gorgeous city.

Siena Cathedral in all its gothic, marble glory

View over Tuscany from the roof of Siena Cathedral - Kevin did the 'Porta del Cielo' tour (Gate of Heaven)
(Photo: Kevin Joy)  

A different perspective of Siena - tiled rooftops viewed from the top of Siena Cathedral(Photo: Kevin Joy)  

This is what it's like when you dine out with Lyndall - all the staff know her and are happy to join in the fun.
One of our waiters muscling in on a selfie!
(at La Taverna di San Giuseppe, Siena)

'Blue Steel' - Kevin and yours truly enjoying a late night pot of tea
at The Tea Room, run by Lyndall's friend, Ilario.
This teapot was specially made for Lyndall, and is proudly on display

Group hug with Ilario, owner of Siena's wonderful The Tea Room
Not just tea - great cocktails too

Kevin and Lyndall outside the Fontebranda, Siena -
one of the many mediaeval fountains throughout the city

Fontebranda interior

Siena town hall in the glorious Piazza del Campo 

The countryside surrounding Lecchi is superb, dotted with castles, vineyards and villages. Tall rows of cypresses provide a symmetry that leads the eye up rocky hills and down into green valleys.

And then there are all the incredible fortress cities, like Monteriggioni which we visited en route back to Florence for our flight home.

Dating from the early 13th century, it has beautiful piazzas now full of restaurants and bars, but was once a front line for the Sienese in their wars against Florence.

The mediaeval walled city of Monteriggioni

Such is Lyndall's social presence in the Chianti region that she ran into two friends in the space of five minutes...
and we were once again dragged into a bottega to sample a grappa or two.
The Lyndall Factor!

A family takes a break in gorgeous Monteriggioni

One of the gateways of the castle walls

Our short break of only four nights in Tuscany felt much longer and left us vowing to return. 

The people in this part of Italy really are very warm and friendly, and it was such a privilege to meet so many of them.

We wined, we dined, we danced (well, I did; Kevin was more restrained). We made friends and came to an understanding of why this region has worked its magic on many before us.

Maree, Lyndall & Kevin enjoying a superb dinner at La Taverna di San Giuseppe

Get down!
Party time at Casa di Lyndall

Lyndall and yours truly hamming it up in Lecchi

The good news is that Casa di Lyndall will be available for rent from mid May 2016 so perhaps it's time to consider that trip to Italy you've been putting off. Lecchi is a fantastic location with Siena, Florence, Bologna and Pisa all within an easy drive.

Lyndall's offering a special discounted rate as an opening special and I urge you to contact her via email at smiley2@grapevine.com.au (website under construction - link coming soon).

Go ahead - live out your Tuscan fantasy at this gorgeous house!

Until next time,

- Maree xo