Wednesday 20 June 2018

What We've Been Up To

The glories of a spring day in rural Hampshire

Well, it's been a very mixed bag of activities in the past month or so. And in case you were wondering, yes - that's right. Try as I might, I could not come up with any kind of clever or original title for this post. Apologies.

A few weeks ago I took the opportunity to once again visit the lovely Hampshire village of Chawton, where Jane Austen spent her final years, and died. Regular readers might recall that I had previously visited in winter, and although delightful at that time, I have to admit this extraordinarily cute village was rendered even more appealing under spring's cloak of vibrant green.







This particular cottage is up for sale!
For around £450,00 it can be yours... and I do have a soft spot for topiary and clipped hedges
http://www.rightmove.co.uk/property-for-sale/property-71569913.html





The last two times I visited Chawton, I was unable to see Chawton House which lies just a gentle stroll away, at the far end of the village. This is the property referred to by Jane in some of her letters as 'the great house' - and it was only by virtue of her brother having inherited Chawton House that Jane and her mother and sister came to live in the village.

Three years ago the trust in charge of this beautiful property changed its policy about visitors. Formerly you could only visit if you were an academic researching Jane Austen or the house. The catalyst for change was their American patron being no longer able to support the property financially, so it was 'needs must' - they had to fling open the doors to the great unwashed (that's you and me). Thank goodness!



The long drive up to Chawton House, with St Nicholas Church on the right


The dwelling attached to Chawton House Stables


St Nicholas Church
- Jane's mother and sister are buried in the churchyard


Chawton House

I do like the informal approach here. Because most of the furniture and decorations are not original, you're allowed to sit on the chairs and get close to the pictures. The library is incredible, particularly for Jane aficionados, and there's a very nice tea room and courtyard.


Add lovely grounds to the mix, surrounded by farmland with frolicking lambs, and it's a pretty special place. I had a really fantastic day.


Inside the dining room at Chawton House


Portrait of Fanny Knight by Jeremiah Steele (1819)
[watercolour on ivory]





Lambies !!! 




In May I once again joined my gig buddy, Roy, for a concert - this time a long-awaited live gig (their first in 16 years) by highly influential band The The at the Royal Albert Hall.

What a performance by Matt Johnson and his incredibly tight band, his voice as strong as it was in the 80s and 90s at the peak of success, and the audience particularly appreciative, given that his elderly dad had passed away unexpectedly just a couple of days before. Huge financial commitment prevented Matt cancelling the tour (which commenced in Stockholm on the very day of his farther's death), and this decision was reinforced by his dad's recent insistence that the family 'get on with things', should anything happen to him.

Please visit YouTube here to enjoy one of The The's best known songs, and one of my all-time favourites from that era - The Uncertain Smile. I quote from the song's lyrics here:


A howling wind that blows the litter as the rain flows 
As street lamps pour orange coloured shapes, through your windows
A broken soul stares from a pair of watering eyes
Uncertain emotions force an uncertain smile

And yes, that is indeed Jools Holland in the video - he appeared as guest pianist on this track, which is probably unique in the history of pop music, with its full three-and-a-half minute jazz jam at the end of the vocal part of the song... incredible stuff that is as fresh today as it was in 1983. This brought the house down at the Royal Albert Hall.

Once again my luck was out - my second visit to the RAH,
and whilst there was less scaffolding than when I saw Morrissey a few months ago,
there was still enough to ruin my photo :-(


I usually opt to stay overnight in London after a concert, because otherwise it means fleeing the theatre in the middle of encores, and racing to Waterloo for the last train to Farnham which departs at around midnight. I also see it as an opportunity to make the most of the £32 return train fare into town. I keep a list of things I want to see and do in London, and try to tick them off the next time I'm there. 

One of my favourite things to do is stay in a different part of London to previous visits, and explore on foot. The architecture alone is worth the price of a mid-range hotel for one night - fabulous examples of Georgian, Victorian, Edwardian and early 20th century residences and commercial premises. Endless galleries to visit. New cafés to try. I never tire of it.


34 Kensington Court, Kensington, London W8
- Victorian splendour






Aaah... The Milestone Hotel, directly opposite Hyde Park


A daytime shot of the exterior of The Milestone Hotel
(I was so impressed the night before, I made a special trip back to see it in daylight!)


... and another shot
*swoon*


The last couple of times I've been in the Kensington / Chelsea area, I've thought about seeking out 22 Hyde Park Gate - Virginia Woolf's home from birth until she was 25 years old. For some unfathomable reason, until now I've never managed it. This time I actually remembered to track it down. *Tick*


22 Hyde Park Gate, SW7




Having devoured countless biographies and volumes of personal letters
between Virginia and her friends and relatives, it was quite magical to stand before
the house where one of my favourite authors spent her formative years

Well, after all that trudging around I felt it was time for refreshment, so I headed to Belgravia, just a little way eastwards. Here I finally visited another venue that had been on my list for a while - Peggie Porschen cakes. I didn't actually want to buy any of their wares, but I did want to see the exterior which is, quite frankly, London's prettiest café... wouldn't you agree?


Peggy Porschen Cakes - a prime corner spot in the hub of Belgravia






This whole area is a delight (though of course horrifyingly expensive), and many of the shops were decorated to play up the fact that it was spring. I indulged in a couple of espressos at a less pink establishment just down the street - of which I neglected to take a photo - watching the beautiful people go by.






Last Friday I continued my exploration of the local area in Farnham, with a 45-minute ramble through farmland and villages to Cupsmith, a small family coffee roasting business in Dippenhall.

I had sampled a bag of their coffee following a visit to Farnham Maltings monthly markets - it was superb, and you know, regular readers, what a bloody-minded coffee snob I am. This tiny cottage industry supplies to The Conran Shop, Selfridges, and selected Waitrose stores, so that tells you something.

When she heard I was local, the owner invited me to visit their business because they open for our about four hours on a Friday. 'Well, I'll walk it!' I decided.



Donkeys! Hurrah - donkeys!!!
Just one of the pleasures to be had walking from our apartment in central Farnham,
to Cupsmith in the village of Dippenhall


The EARS, people... *love*


My route traversed fields, woodlands and streams


Dippenhall Grange


More gorgeous creatures, making my jaunt an absolute pleasure


I was not the first visitor on open day, with a couple of other groups enjoying the free coffee around the big country table in Emma and George's roastery, situated in one of their barns.

A friendly welcome, lively conversation with some of the other patrons and a cracking good Americano meant I came away from Cupsmith with not only a bag of their finest espresso blend, but a warm and fuzzy glow as well (particularly with 1.5 hours of brisk walking under my belt - I was feeling very virtuous).

I'll say it again - I cannot believe how lucky I am to live in this fantastic area.





Following are some random shots of the glories of spring / early summer here in beautiful Surrey. Try not to be too envious - it's unattractive.


This is the rear garden door to one of the cottages on our street


Springer shenanigans at Frensham Little Pond.
This friendly chap was exercising his two dogs, and two of his brother's


Fetch!


The Mill at Elstead
- we enjoyed lunch here with our friend Kate, who was visiting from NYC



Cottage at Farnham Castle, positively festooned with climbing roses


Late evening sun on one of Farnham's gilded weather vanes
- this one sits atop a building in the Lion & Lamb Walk
(the weather vane is modelled on a 16th century galleon)

Elderflower is in full bloom through Surrey


And what of Kevin, I hear you ask?

Well, he has enjoyed several trips away in the past couple of months - two Duke of Edinburgh camping weekends with students in the South Downs, but also a long weekend in the Elan Valley in Wales, mountain biking across the glorious green hills with a few friends.


Kevin's companions heading towards one of the Elan Valley Reservoirs.
These are a chain of man-made lakes created from damming the Elan and Claerwen rivers 
[photo by Kevin Joy]


Craig Goch Dam, Elan Valley.
Those Victorians! They made everything so beautiful - form and function in all construction

[photo by Kevin Joy]

Last weekend we squeezed in a horror movie (the new Toni Collette one, Hereditary - very creepy and a bizarre final 20 minutes) and a return visit to Loseley Park, near Guildford, which was looking amazing with everything in bloom.
























This weekend we're off to the Cotswolds for a couple of nights. We are taking advantage of one of those cheap(ish) deals - staying in a lovely place that we wouldn't ordinarily patronise because of the cost (which has been heavily reduced for our stay).

It's been a long time since we splurged, and as by the end of June we'll only have spent three full weekends together in the preceding two months due to school trips and cycling jaunts, it will be nice to have some real quality time. No sooner do we get back, than Kevin scampers off to the Hebrides - specifically, the Isle of Skye - for a ten-day school trip. No, I'm not envious at all...

Within a week or two of Kevin's return from Scotland we'll be receiving further summer visitors (Lesley is already here - hooray!), something we're very much looking forward to.  

And then, at the beginning of August we jet off to alpine France for five days of fresh air and exercise - in Morzine, a ski resort town about 90 minutes' drive from Geneva. 

Oh yes, it's all go here!





Until next time,
- Maree  xo