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| Georgian doorway in Downing Street |
Well, here we are.
I am so, so happy to once again be living in beautiful Farnham.
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| Row of pretty cottages adjacent to Castle Street |
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| The Bishop's Palace at Farnham Castle |
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| Another shot of The Bishop's Palace |
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Yes, folks - Farnham has a store dedicated solely to canine accoutrements.
Barbour accoutrements, no less.
It's that kind of town |
Every day I reflect on how wonderful it is to be back here. The difference is evident in many things, but most particularly in the sense of no longer being on the fringe of London; that warm, familiar feeling of being back in the genuine Surrey - a place where on my walks the people I meet are properly attired in wellies and quilted jackets, and who nod to you or say 'Good morning' as you pass.
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More canine - and human - accessories at the Farnham branch
of UK retail institution, Orvis |
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Those of you still able to exercise your high school French
will appreciate the wit of this little garden gate sign, from a house on Castle Street |
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| The Nelson Arms in Castle Street - operating as a tavern since the 16th century |
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The Wheatsheaf - one of our locals.
It's a very upmarket gastropub |
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One of Farnham's beautiful, historic lanes
- this is just a couple of minutes' walk from our place |
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Castle Street's renowned Alms Houses, dating from 1620
- 'for the habitation and relief of eight poor honest and impotent persons' |
Our move from Epsom to Farnham was relatively straightforward with one exception. Try as they might, our removalists simply could not get our beloved deep-seated, incredibly comfortable three-seater sofa into the apartment. They got it up the stairs to the first floor, at which point they had to get it through a fire door entry into a small landing, and turn a corner into our place. Doors were removed, chunks were taken out of walls in the attempt. For the want of an extra 3cm of space, the attempt was eventually abandoned.
What to do with a large sofa when you don't have a garage or anywhere else to store it?
Thank goodness for the lockable bike storage area, where we had to temporarily place our sofa on its end, pending removal. I hurriedly placed the item on Facebook Marketplace and Gumtree at a ridiculous price - we needed to move this thing, as we were already in contravention of our new complex's rules (not a great start on day one!).
Pleasingly, the people of the UK know an absolute bargain when they see one. There was immediately a lot of interest and the first person to enquire was the one to turn up two days later - having driven all the way from Worthing, near Brighton - and happily cart it away. I tried to disregard the gloating glint in her eye.
Then began the search for a new sofa which involved many hours of internet research, a second visit to IKEA Croydon within a week (otherwise known as 'Slow Death By Shrieking Children'), and several hours visiting the nearby gigantic furniture stores on Purley Way. I'm picky; our recently departed sofa had served us well for 12 years but still looked brand new because I did my research, was willing to pay for quality (Warwick fabric), and we took care of it. I don't make large purchases lightly.
In the end, surprisingly, we went with an IKEA sofa - the Stocksund. As we really don't know where we'll be living in 12 months' time we decided to go with a less expensive item... just in case it doesn't suit the next abode and we have to get rid of it.
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| A view of tree-lined Beavers Road from our living room |
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The shared courtyard area of our complex.
Just out of shot, up to the right, is a gazebo with a seating area |
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Literally just across the street and down a few metres
- gorgeous old cottages in Beavers Road |
The apartment is very comfortable and modern, being only about seven years old. It doesn't quite have the Victorian grandeur of Winchester House's soaring ceilings and double-height sash windows, however we are revelling in the modern conveniences we were previously lacking. For the first time in our lives we have an ensuite, and both bathrooms have *concealed cisterns* - oh, the joy! Best of all, after three years of washing up by hand, we once again have a dishwasher.
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A housewarming gift from a friend - 1kg of fabulous Angelucci 'Mokital' coffee.
Her Italian grandfather founded the company in Soho in 1929 |
After the trials of the move we were welcomed back to the area by friends with drinks at The Holly Bush in Frensham, followed by an excellent Thai meal at Thai Lotusland in Farnham.
Farnham has become even more lovely since we last lived in the area (2008-09), with many new independent boutiques, restaurants and cafés, including - OH. MY. GOD. - one that serves a long black. Only Antipodeans will appreciate how exciting that is.
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| Kevin enjoying a long black and some orange polenta cake at Krema |
I cannot tell you how disproportionately comforting it is to know that I can enter a coffee establishment in my own town and not have to go through the agony of attempting to get a decent black coffee. Ordering an Americano is always disappointing - the cups are too big, meaning there's too much water added, and even when I ask for an extra shot ('That's THREE shots, Madam - are you sure?!') it somehow still ends up weak. It's also almost always too hot, they pour the water on top of the espresso (as opposed to putting the water in first, and then the double-shot of espresso - as in a long black) and almost without exception it's disappointing. Usually I just order a double espresso but really I'm wanting something with a bit more volume than that... hence the LONG BLACK - I wish the rest of the world would adopt this Australian / New Zealand tradition.
The name of the café is Krema, by the way. The owner noticed our Aussie accents and therefore understood we were two people who probably knew about coffee. Thus ensued an 'enthusiastic discussion' (ie I wanted to throw my arms about his neck and kiss him) about this being the only café in Christendom - well, in Surrey at least - that had the correct size cups for a long black. He ended up sending over a free sample of their cold brew, which has been in vogue amongst the world's serious coffee community for a couple of years now, but which I've never really been tempted to try. I still wouldn't generally order it, but I certainly will consider doing so on a hot day when I'm desperate for a caffeine hit but can't face a hot drink.
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| Krema's cold filtered coffee |
The week after landing back in Farnham we attended annual welcome drinks at the Headmaster's residence at Frensham Heights. Kevin and I have both been struck by how welcoming everyone is - particularly those people we knew last time we were part of the Frensham community, but also new faces. When Kevin was undergoing separation anxiety about leaving Ewell Castle School after three years, I tried to remind him just how different Frensham is, and reassure him that within five minutes he'd be feeling right at home. I don't think he was convinced, but now that we're here we both are experiencing a warm, fuzzy feeling to be back amongst good friends and in this beautiful area.
He is particularly enjoying the superior cuisine of Frensham, which leaves Ewell Castle and every other school in which Kevin's ever worked, in the shade. He delightedly showed me the week's menu during his first week. Every day there are at least three vegan hot dishes, plus a couple of vegetarian ones, and that's not even taking into account the world-class salads which on any given day will contain puy lentils, chick peas, sundried tomatoes, roasted peppers.... *argh* Maybe I'll have to apply for a job in the Frensham office.
Our return was perfectly timed to take advantage of Heritage Open Days, which is a UK-wide programme of historic buildings that open to the public for just a few days each year, and which we enjoyed very much back in 2009.
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Waverley House, opposite the ruins of Waverley Abbey
- we took a tour of the house as part of Heritage Open Days |
Of course there's one significant downside to being back over this side of Surrey - my commute to work. *groan* I was dreading it, and that dread has been fully justified.
From Winchester House, work was an easy 20-minute drive to Tadworth, along mostly leafy quiet streets and often past Epsom Downs with its amazing views all the way to London. As I work full-time hours compressed into four days (giving me Fridays off), I used to leave home just after 7.00am and be unlocking my office just before 7.30am.
I now leave home at 6.15am - yes, you read that correctly - in order to reach Tadworth by about 7.00am, with the aim of perhaps leaving around 4.00pm. As I discovered the other day, if I can't get away by then it's pointless getting in the car before at least 5.30pm. Last Tuesday I left the office just before 4.30pm and then spent one hour and 35 minutes travelling to Farnham - 35 of those minutes were spent in first gear, on a 4-mile crawl past Guildford. Excruciating.
But then I arrive back in Farnham and everything seems better.
And even the morning journey has moments of pleasure - speeding along The Hog's Back at dawn and watching the morning mists roll upwards from the valley below. On clear mornings, the views stretch as far as London to the north, and to Hindhead and The Devil's Punchbowl to the south. Jane Austen mentioned The Hog's Back in one of her letters and it's a warming feeling to know she travelled along this same route a couple of centuries ago.
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Beautiful Guildford is only 15-20 minutes' drive from Farnham, across The Hog's Back.
Its cobbled high street is one of the most exclusive shopping areas in the UK,
outside of London |
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| Abbot's Hospital Alms House, Guildford High Street |
Farnham has dozens of winding little cobbled lanes, cute cottages, gorgeous Georgian houses - particularly on Castle Street which is renowned as one of the best preserved Georgian streets in Britain. It truly is superb, sweeping upwards from the town and crowned at the top of the hill by Farnham Castle.
Judging by the glimpses afforded through front windows, all the houses seem to be occupied by people who read voraciously and grow orchids, with interesting taste in pottery and wing chairs. There are endless cosy pubs that we are gradually visiting and ticking off the list.
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| The Hop Blossom, one of Farnham's many welcoming pubs |
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| Old Cemetery Lodge, at Farnham Cemetery |
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| McDonald's Alms Houses, a couple of minutes' walk from the apartment |
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| Gainsborough Cottage, Upper Church Lane |
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| The chapel at Farnham Cemetery |
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| The magnificent front entry to Castle Hill House |
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Just 5 minutes from Farnham is The Packhouse,
a fabulous antiques and homewares emporium |
Although we are in the middle of the town, our street is very quiet except for when the infants' school next door lets out and during break times. We have shops, restaurants, galleries and pubs within a couple of minutes' walk.
And yet a short stroll behind our street leads us into beautiful countryside. A network of almost secret paths and bridleways lead directly into farmland, and also to the magnificent and extensive Farnham Park. Although this it not quite the deep rural environment of Frensham, I find myself quite content with these country environs - it will take me months to explore them properly, and thus far I have found that there are many working farms as well as livery stables within ten minutes' ramble from the apartment. On a recent 45-minute reconnaisance I only met one dog walker and two mountain bikers. Certainly there is the same profusion of potholes, as befits country lanes across the county.
Naturally my jaunts involve a large degree of wistful envy directed at the People With Money who are able to afford the cottages and larger houses in the area. Dare we dream that we could join their ranks one day?
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View across Farnham from the farmland behind our street,
with the beautiful tower of St Andrew's Church in the background |
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The vibrant racemes of the Leycesteria Formosa (that's Himalayan Honeysuckle to you)
- also known as Pheasant Berry.
Honestly, you couldn't dream up something like this, could you? Amazing!
[with thanks to my font of all botanical knowledge, Lesley Williams] |
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| Farmland behind our street |
I feel so fortunate that we've returned to Farnham just as my favourite time of year - Autumn - is starting.
The streets and fields are full of this season's bounty. The last of the blackberry - plump, black, soft, juicy and sweet; there's no longer the danger of striking one that promises sweetness, but instead rewards your mouth with unbelievable tartness. And then there are all the other shrubs and trees bearing their fruit - everywhere orange, yellow, red, blue, black berries in profusion. The last of the summer blooms are valiantly holding on, before the Autumn winds and rain sweep them away.
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| The blackberries are coming to an end |
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| My local 'tunnel of green' - path from the farmland behind our street |
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| This Orange Pyracantha hedging is popular along Farnham's streets | |
The start of Autumn also brings geese flying in formation as they hurry away from the approaching colder seasons. I suppose there must have been migrating geese in Epsom and London but I confess I was never aware of them. There is something beautiful and magical in their plaintive honking as they bid us farewell.
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| Geese heading south, above the farmland behind our street |
My only regret is that my mother did not live to share this with me. As a child, as a teenager, as an adult, she and I often watched movies or television programmes and looked enviously, longingly at the English countryside. Of course, had she lived, perhaps we would never have taken the step to move so far away from her. But that doesn't stop me wishing that she was here to enjoy this with me, to drink in the splendour of the English countryside, to take the long rambles, to appreciate everything that this beautiful place has to offer.
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| A glass of Prosecco at Zizzi to celebrate our first night in Farnham |
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| Cobbled Lower Church Lane, leading to St Andrew's Church |
Back in Farnham.
This is the happiest I've been in years.
Until next time,
- Maree xo
