Canals, gondolas and emergency wellies

Gondolas bobbing about in the mid afternoon winter sunshine

Welcome to the first post of 2020, and belated New Year greetings. It's been a bit of a crap start to the year, hasn't it? Chump attempting to start World War III whilst our home country struggles with months of extreme heat, toxic smoke and fire on an apocalyptic scale.

As Australia continued to burn throughout Christmas, we found ourselves in an environment with quite the opposite problem.

Hustle and bustle on the Grand Canal

Kevin on the Piazza San Marco, with the Basilica and Campanile behind

You'd never tire of the incredibly beautiful and interesting buildings in Venice.
They are the stuff of romantic novels.

Late afternoon sunlight on the Chiesa di San Marcuola,
a 12th century church fronting the Grand Canal 

For both of us, it had been several decades since we'd visited Venice, though in recent years we've made several trips to the general region - ie northern Italy, and nearby Slovenia. 

How fortunate, then, for us to time our trip during a period of exceptionally high tides, known as Acqua Alta.

Random tourist keeping her luggage dry in Acqua Alta conditions.
She was waiting to clamber up onto the temporary boardwalk, on which I was standing

'Welcome to our hotel!'
(not where we were staying)

Gotta tell ya... I was impressed with the stoicism of the Venetians.
Even in these conditions, the city chugs along - deliveries are made...

... and people drink coffee, as normal.

Every shop owner has a generator to pump the water out of their premises,
into the street where the Venetian draining system usually carries it away

No, really - we looked upon it as an adventure! Admittedly we weren't quite as relaxed on our first night when we were awoken at 04:00 by what sounded like an air raid siren. My first thought was, 'Oh bloody hell - Trump's done it! He's pressed the button!'

The air raid siren was followed by a strange chiming sound, lasting about ten seconds. This sound was then repeated four times. 

By this stage Kevin was furiously Googling 'What's that siren at 4am in Venice?' and we were much relieved to discover it was the emergency alert system for exceptionally high tides. The number of times the chime is repeated indicates - in increments of 10 centimetres - just how much above 1 metre high the tide will be. So we were at Category Red, meaning the tide would be over 1.4 metres, and 90% of Venice would be under water.


Thankfully, it was only on our first morning that we were really impacted (aside from being awoken by the warning system for three mornings in a row, that is).

I had booked us on a Wake Up Venice! tour, requiring us to be at the Rialto Bridge by 07:30 (what on earth was I thinking?). We managed to arrive at our appointed meeting place, and in the 30 minutes it took us to reach that location from our Air B&B apartment, and then wait for our tour guide to arrive, the water was swirling around our shoes, and rapidly rising. 

The world's most dejected Santa Claus.
That object floating behind him is the plastic bag from his left foot
(the one on his right foot is still intact at this point)

The delightful Clementina, with Kevin

After introducing herself, our charming guide Clementina advised us to buy tourist wellies from one of the many stands peppered all over Venice - a snip at €15 a pair. Lots of tourists were gadding about in what looked like glorified carrier bags shaped like boots. Clementina warned us against these disposable items, because after a day on Venice's paved streets and bridges, they would fall apart - and of course environmentally they're a blight on the planet. We were to be in Venice for nearly a week, and the Acqua Alta would continue for a further two days. Spending an extra €5 each on actual wellies would be a good investment.

We spent the next few hours wading in various directions around the city, as Clementina - with her local knowledge - chose routes that she thought would be less affected by the tide. For much of our tour progress was very slow, with the water being almost up to the top of our wellies or higher (in which case we turned tail and went back the way we had come). In various heavy traffic spots the city erects temporary raised platforms to allow people to move above the water.

The author models the latest in Acqua Alta fashion

It's not just the pedestrian traffic that is impacted by the Acqua Alta. The only form of transport on this large island is by water - and when the tide is exceptionally high the vaporetti and other water vehicles cannot operate... because the water's too high for them to pass under the bridges!

Anyway, we survived, and the water began to recede by late morning, with the worst day being that first one. On the ensuing days we simply planned our schedule so that we didn't venture out until late morning. The conditions certainly didn't prevent us seeing the sights of this glorious city.

And we were so glad we'd done our tour with Clementina on our first morning, as it really set us up with information for the rest of the week. For example, we had no idea there is a rooftop terrace that you can visit FOR FREE, not far from the Rialto Bridge. Fancy department store Fondaco dei Tedeschi simply requires you to book in for a time slot via their website, and hey, presto! views such as the one below are yours to enjoy.

View over the Grand Canal from the roof terrace at fancy department store 
Fondaco dei Tedeschi, just near the Rialto Bridge

Inside the Fondaco dei Tedeschi department store

Gondolas passing under the Bridge of Sighs

The Rialto Bridge in evening mist

The Piazza San Marco NOT under water!

Selfie with Venetian bridge

Our local environment - in the district known as Cannaregio - was only a 20 minute walk from the Piazza San Marco, and even closer to the Rialto Bridge (about 15 minutes). In other words, far enough away from the super-touristy areas but still in a very desirable and central part of Venice.

We were blessed to be literally a few steps from what has to be one of the world's most beautiful supermarkets, the Despar Teatro Italia - a former neo-Gothic / Art Nouveau theatre. This place has forever ruined me for ordinary grocery shopping - any purveyor without frescoed ceilings will forever be a disappointment.

Yes, folks - this was our local supermarket in Venice, literally a few metres from our apartment

The front entrance to the Despar Teatro Italia supermarket

*swoon*
Take a look at those art nouveau railings!
(the pink barrels / boxes are Panettone. They get through a LOT of it at Christmas)

Yep.
When was the last time you did your supermarket shopping in a building with frescoed ceilings?

Every day we took great delight in purchasing various Italian delicacies for our breakfasts, and some lunches and dinners. The severe flooding in November had resulted in 90% of American tourists cancelling their Christmas holidays to Venice, meaning the city was struggling. As a consequence, many of the restaurants had decided to close for the 24th, 25th and 26th of December, so we made sure we had our own provisions in case we couldn't find anywhere that served vegetarian/vegan food over the main Christmas days.

As it turned out, on the recommendation of our Air B&B host we ventured across a couple of canals to a more 'suburban' area of Venice, and were lucky enough to come across the charming little Osteria L'Orto Dei Amori, on the afternoon of Christmas Eve. I went in to ask if they were open that evening, and emerged with a dinner booking. It was a treat to be in a quiet little restaurant on Christmas Eve, in company with a couple of large Italian family groups and only a few other tourist couples.

Our Christmas Eve dinner venue, right on the Rio della Sensa canal
(that's the canal bridge in the foreground)

We chose a local wine to have with our Christmas Eve dinner at Osteria l'Orto Dei Mori

Ah, the fresh pasta for sale everywhere!

All over Venice are little grocers selling fantastic seasonal and local produce.
Artichokes and this unusual Radicchio Treviso were everywhere

Another beautiful store near our apartment - a gelateria with many vegan options

The Church of Madonna dell'Orto, just a short stroll from the restaurant where we dined on Christmas Eve. 
It dates from the 15th century, and houses works by Tintaretto, who is buried within the church

Altar of the Immaculate Conception - Church of Madonna dell'Orto

Altar with nativity scene in the foreground.
The Italians believe it's bad luck to have the Baby Jesus in the nativity scene prior to Christmas, 
so the cradle will always be empty if you visit an Italian church before 24 December!

(not one of the Tintoretto paintings for which this church is famous)
St John the Baptist with Saints Peter, Mark, Jerome, and Paul
- by Giovanni Battista Cima da Conegliano (c. 1497)

After several days of meandering around Venice itself, on our final full day we decided to buy a 24-hour vaporetto (water bus) ticket, and struck out one morning to the island of Murano - of course most famous for the ornate Murano glass. 

Murano glass does not appeal to me aesthetically, though I am in awe of the skill required to create it. We were on the island for a couple of hours, wandering around, with an hour spent in the Murano Glass Museum. 

One of the stops on the way to Murano was the island of San Michele - it's essentially a cemetery, w
ith numerous famous people laid to rest there, including Sergei Diaghilev, Igor Stravinsky, and Ezra Pound

Laundry drying in a courtyard on the island of Murano.
I couldn't help but wonder whether somebody had accidentally left a red sock in the washing machine 
when the sheets were done...

The Murano Glass Museum has pieces on display from the 14th century to present day

Doorway on the island of Murano

This fashionably attired pooch was patiently awaiting his owner's return.
Note the little bow with diamante - near his tail

So many beautiful buildings line the shores of Venice's islands

After Murano we island-hopped by vaporetto again, this time alighting at the tiny island of Burano, which is where our first-day tourist guide Clementina grew up.

What a glorious little island hamlet!

There's a lot of domestic pride on Burano.
Nearly every window had flowers or some other form of decoration

The colours!

The bell tower I named 'Eileen' - it gives Pisa a run for its money!

Not long before sunset on the island of Burano

We had seen internet pictures of the brightly coloured houses, but assumed there was probably just a small collection of these quaint buildings, which were marketed to attract tourists.

How wrong we were - every single building on Burano is brightly coloured. It is bonkers.

We enjoyed a leisurely lunch at a diminutive osteria on one of the canals, huddled under the outdoor heater. We got chatting with an English chap at the next table, and instead of a quick bite we ended up spending about 90 minutes sharing travel stories and commiserations about Brexit, over excellent wine and some of the most delicious, simple Italian food we've ever had - ending with superb espresso of course.

Our lunch venue, on the canal on the island of Burano

This bird and cat were enjoying the winter afternoon sun on Burano.
I think they must have been good friends - they were companionably together for ages!

Sunset as our vaporetto took us back to Venice, from Burano

As you can see from our photos, we had beautiful weather in Venice - not quite as cold as I would like, but chilly nights (usually around -1ºC to +2ºC) and fresh, sunny days with a maximum temperature of around 9-12ºC. We had actually been hoping for more inclement weather - and specifically fog, as we are both huge fans of the 1973 film Don't Look Now (Dir. Nicolas Roeg), which was set in wintry, foggy Venice.

We did get one misty night, but it wasn't quite in the Don't Look Now category of creepiness. Once or twice we glimpsed a short, red-hooded figure - those of you who are familiar with this fabulous Donald Sutherland / Julie Christie film will understand that reference!

One of our most 'Venice' moments was when we unexpectedly stopped for aperitivo at a little restaurant in a very quiet spot that was empty of tourists. It was just nearing sunset and we were exhausted, having trudged the length and breadth of the city (or so it seemed), for about six hours. We'd been there about 15 minutes, each nursing a 'Spritz' (Aperol, Prosecco and a splash of soda water), when this happened:

Venice's resident population is shrinking, with only 55,000 inhabitants currently. In the 1980s there were 120,000. There are many reasons for this - the main one being that the city has almost exclusively been given up to tourism. No longer is it a city of resident Venetians. Anybody who has an apartment or house has been lured by the Air B&B tourist dollar, and who can blame them? If you lived in a home you could rent out for gigantic profit, you'd probably do it.

The severe flooding in November is expected to have been a further turning point, with a significant proportion of the remaining residents making the decision to leave for good.  Climate change is predicted to make flooding a more frequent occurrence. Business owners, employees, and property owners are moving to the mainland and they just commute in as needed. 

Clementina told us you can pick up a ground floor apartment for a song, as nobody wants to buy at ground level anymore, and even Air B&B would-be-entrepreneurs seem unwilling to take a risk on their investment being regularly flooded. I imagine it's pretty hard to get insurance for ground floor properties.

I'm contributing to the problem, by being a tourist... but if we all stop going then the economy really would crumble.

I think we were both surprised at just how delighted we were to be back in this utterly unique environment. If you've never visited, I highly recommend you try to get there before it goes under. But visit in the quieter season. The summer hordes make Venice intolerably crowded and a lot of its charm is lost.

Panoramic shot of Venice from the roof terrace of Fondaco dei Tedeschi
[photo by Kevin Joy]

[photo by Kevin Joy]

Sunset near the Piazza San Marco

Waiters touting for business on the Piazza San Marco

Late afternoon on the Grand Canal

Despite the fact that this city is not very 'Christmassy', we had a fantastic time - a quiet Christmas with no fuss, and no stress.

There really is nowhere like Venice. 

Until next time,
- Maree  xo

Days to Cherish

This is the distant hill we can see from our house, on a perfect autumn afternoon

It's been a while since I posted.

Work has been crazy-busy and with my long working days and hellish commute, I find that I simply don't have the energy to devote to this activity. My Fridays off are generally filled with errands, appointments, housework and personal admin. On Saturdays we do usually try to get out and about, unless Kevin is on boarding duty. However since the new academic year started, Kevin's new role as Head of Physics has meant we've had less time for gadding about the country.

But I couldn't let this season, my favourite time of year, pass without sharing some of the glories.

In very early autumn we searching for signs of colour - unsuccessfully, for the most part, as we had a very mild start to the season. In fact it was almost an Indian Summer until well into October.

Very early autumn from Harting Down - part of the South Downs, West Sussex.
Some of the trees just starting to turn

Early autumn in the churchyard of St Mary and St Gabriel,
in South Harting, in our neighbouring county of West Sussex

Above and in the picture below - 'chocolate box' cottages in the West Sussex village
of South Harting, where we enjoyed a fireside drink in the local pub

Our immediate environs remain gobsmackingly, unbelievably gorgeous, despite the fact that we've been back here at Frensham for well over a year now and should be blasé about it. I don't think I ever will be. See the proof below.

Afternoon light at the corner of our garden fence, looking south-east.
I know our Australian friends and family will be regarding that verdant ground with envious eyes

Across the road from our bungalow - The Aldridge Theatre (far left), with an avenue of
intensely red acers, and the beech hedge in the foreground

(our house is opposite those white cones in the distance
- they are an all-weather canopy in front of the school's art studio)

One of those incredibly red acers across the street from our house

One of my favourite trees at Frensham Heights
- this glorious gingko is beautiful in summer, but absolutely stunning in autumn
as it turns bright gold

Optimum autumn colour
- ivy and virginia creeper on the main entrance to Frensham Heights School 

One of the benefits of all that damp, misty autumn weather is the abundance of fungi that springs up everywhere, mixed in with the trees sprouting their cones and acorns. Most of the fungi are poisonous and I'd never risk illness or death by harvesting my own, without being trained. But they're fascinating to look at.

I know spring is vibrant because of everything bursting into bloom, but autumn holds just as many pleasures, if only you open your eyes.

Tiny candle-like immature cones, on one of the school's cedars

Fool's Conecap on a fallen log

A miniature forest of fungi on this fallen log in woodland at Frensham Heights School
(Common Inkcap - each mushroom is about 7-8 centimetres high)

Yes, this is real!
There was a great expanse of these fairytale toadstools (Fly Agaric) on the lawn at work

Dinner plate shelf fungi on a tree at Limnerslease,
the former home of artists G F Watts and Mary Watts, near Compton

Dew on tree berries, Frensham Heights School front lawn

A walk from our front door in any given direction - but particularly south - leads to winding country lanes with their deep shadows, opening out to wide green fields and expanses of natural forest. The whole of Surrey is currently blanketed in a carpet of gold, but already many trees are bare and this most beautiful time of year will shortly give way to the more austere beauty of winter. 

The other end of Summerfield Lane

Sheep grazing on the high fields close to Nash's Copse, near Dockenfield
- this is the other side of the distant hill that we can see from our backyard

A tunnel of green and gold - West End Lane, about five minutes' walk from home

Yours truly basking in late afternoon golden light in early November
- on the distant hill we can see from the house

Amber autumn sunlight creates the illusion that the tops of these pine trees are ablaze

The mud has returned to Surrey - which is as it should be!

Golden beech in one of my favourite bits of woodland, just below the school
- it's known as 'Secret Sands'

(I often stand in this woodland - which is elevated between two lanes - and twirl around in circles, staring up at the tree canopy and the sky. Thankfully, I've only ever come across another human there on one occasion. So I don't yet have a reputation as a local eccentric, as far as I'm aware...)

Some of you will have seen a few of these shots before, either on Facebook or my Instagram account, but I hope you won't object to the repetitive content.

FYI:  If you are an Instagram user, you can follow me (@mareepsasja), and some of the content that I publish on Instagram does not end up on this blog. I only have 96 followers, LOL - the internet 'influencers' are under no threat from me!

Despite the hectic pace of everyday life, we have managed a few short jaunts since returning from Norway in late August. 

In early October we were thrilled to catch up with my nephew Damian, his wife Kristy, and children Joshua and Alyssa, who were on a short visit from Sydney. It was more than three years since I had seen them, and well over five years for Kevin, and I think the kids had a challenge to remember us. But by the end of our day together in Brighton, we were old friends.

I got Kristy's permission to publish some photos of us all on Facebook (my FB security settings are such that only my 'Friends' can see my pictures on that platform), but as this is a blog open to the internet, I'm not including any photos of the family.

Über cool hair salon in Brighton

The satisfyingly kitsch Victorian splendour of Brighton Pier

I spent a Sunday in October at Arundel Castle in West Sussex, catching up with a former work colleague. Kevin and I visited this magnificent castle and lovely village a couple of years ago, and with it being an easy one-hour drive from home, it was a pleasure to take a second look.

The Keep, Arundel Castle, West Sussex.
Established in 1067, the castle was damaged in the English Civil War (1642-1651)
and then restored during the 18th and 19th centuries

Arundel Castle Keep and Barbican Tower

Spectacular views across the town of Arundel and the West Sussex countryside, from the Barbican Towers 

I've been into London for the day several times in the past couple of months, catching up with friends and visiting exhibitions. In October Kevin and I joined friends Roy and Tracey to see a special screening of the original Blade Runner film at the Royal Albert Hall, with a live orchestra providing the fabulous Vangelis score.

This was a particularly special event, given that the person who stole every scene he was in, and one of my all-time favourite actors - Rutger Hauer - had passed away at the age of 75 just a few months before. 

Click here to view 3 minutes and 54 seconds of one of Rutger's finest moments in cinema - the famous 'tears in rain' scene towards the end of Blade Runner.

I managed to meet Rutger at the Sydney premiere of his film Salute of the Jugger (also known as The Blood of Heroes in some countries), way back in 1990, and although his career has had its up and downs over the decades, I have always followed him with interest. 

RIP, you big hunk of Dutch talent.

The Royal Albert Hall - with no scaffolding, for once!

The following day we explored the Design Museum in Kensington. A lot of you probably don't associate London with cutting edge design and modern architecture, and my own focus has always been on the history of the city and its buildings. However, Britain does have a solid track record in these areas, and this museum pays homage to all forms of design.

Such a fascinating piece of architecture - look at all those shapes in the ceiling!

A fascinating exhibit shows the full horror of a single passenger's plastic waste on a long haul flight - and the alternative products being developed to mitigate this

I have a bit of a weakness for Anglepoise lamps - which this particular exhibit indulged

Ah, the fashion of my heyday!
The bold designs of Vivienne Westwood's 'Seditionaries' series, 1976-1978

Thank goodness for 1976.
Although I was only to really discover punk a couple of years later, at age 14,
even in the far-flung suburbs of Sydney the energy of this cultural movement would change my life

I promise this post is ending soon.

After a leisurely breakfast one Saturday in early November, on a whim we decided to explore a bit more of Wiltshire. This is a county that's always held appeal for us, but aside from passing through it on our way to Bath, the Cotswolds or to Wales, we haven't spent that much time there.

It was a typically drizzly autumn day, and we only had a few hours so we took the scenic (B-road) route towards Devizes, and returned via a brief stop in Marlborough. We plan to do some more exploring when we have proper time to do the area justice.

One of Wiltshire's famous hillside chalk horses - this one at Cherhill, just north of Devizes

The Halloween decorations were out in Devizes

Stone cottage near Devizes in Wiltshire

Silbury Hill - Europe's largest man-made prehistoric mound (built between BC 2400-2300) 

Charming pub in the prosperous town of Marlborough

In the course of plotting the route for our Wiltshire day out, I came to the realisation that Highclere Castle (that's Downton Abbey to you) is less than an hour's drive from us.

WHAT THE ??!?!!!!

How did I live this long in Surrey without realising this? It's literally 20 minutes' drive slightly north-west from Basingstoke. Admittedly, it's only open on certain dates and you need to book tickets in advance, but needless to say, we have plans to rectify this day-trip oversight. 

Watch this space - no doubt there will be a Highclere Castle post coming your way in 2020... 

And so I will close with a couple of snaps of what we have named 'Pheasant Central' - ie our backyard. It's been a joy to watch the elder Mr P bring his offspring to feed in our garden, with Mr P Junior gradually developing his tail feathers and adult male colours. And Mr P has invited his extended family on occasion: Kevin counted nine pheasants in the garden at one time during the recent half-term holidays.

Mr P Senior (at the rear), with P Junior in the foreground - foraging for seed from our birdfeeders

Close-up of Mr P Senior - what a handsome chap!

We are still enjoying nightly visits from the badgers, though I confess to a diminution in my affection, upon the discovery that they are steadfastly eating their way through my spring bulbs, planted in late October and which were just starting to show their green shoots above the soil level. *pesky devils!*

Here's hoping the bulbs make it through to spring...

Pine woods near The Sands, about 10 minutes' drive from home

At the peak of Autumn glory - a field on Summerfield Lane, immediately below the school.
At most times of the day you can usually find 2-3 roe deer munching on the foliage

Until next time,
- Maree xo