Wild About Wells

 

Wells Cathedral in Wells, Somerset - built around 1175

A couple of months ago Kevin and I pootled over to Wells in Somerset, in our continuing endeavours to get to know this lovely county, in which we will potentially make our future home. For about a year now we have been exploring Wiltshire and Somerset in earnest.

We drove to Wells and back within the day and were so lucky with the weather - it was one of those glorious freezing-cold-but-sunny winter days; a maximum temperature of 3ºC and hard frost everywhere.

The Bishop's Palace Gatehouse

Wells is about 2.5 hours driving time westwards from Frensham, and it lies at the southernmost edge of the beautiful Mendip Hills, a designated AONB (Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty). It's 45 minutes south-west of Bath, and a similar distance south of Bristol. Dotted within easy reach are other lovely towns and attractions including Frome, Bradford-on-Avon, the Cheddar Gorge, Glastonbury and the coastal resort of Weston-super-Mare in which Kevin spent a number of childhood summer holidays.

With the exception of the City of London (the area of central London which encompasses its financial district), Wells is Britain's smallest city. In the UK city designation is not based solely on population or geographical size. Having a cathedral or a university can qualify a town for city status, and such is the case in Wells - despite a population of only 12,000 it is a designated city due to the presence of beautiful Wells Cathedral.

This gothic wonder was built around 1175 to replace an earlier church (!) that had been on the site since 705. We didn't have time to pay the entrance fee and explore the cathedral; we decided we'd save it for another day when we were unrestricted by time constraints. We did however do a quick tour of the Bishop's Palace and Gardens. The Palace has been home to the Bishops of Bath and Wells for over 800 years.

Suffice to say, however, we were very impressed with Wells on our first visit.

The Bishop's Palace in Wells, Somerset

The Bishop's Chapel, part of the Bishop's Palace

Dragon finial on the Jacobean Staircase inside The Bishop's Palace, Wells

I loved the wallpaper around the Jacobean Staircase!

The Long Gallery inside The Bishop's Palace at Wells.
Lining its walls are portraits of 32 of the 60 Bishops of Bath and Wells

One of the walls of the ruined Great Hall at The Bishop's Palace

The Bishop's Palace and Gardens have a moat!
Look at that frost - brrrrrr! It was a lovely winter's day

Kevin saying hello to Maisie, the resident cat at Wells Cathedral.
On both occasions we've visited, Maisie has been sitting in the centre of the entrance hall,
waiting to greet all visitors

Last weekend we returned to Wells for the purpose of viewing a house in one of the small villages just a few minutes drive outside the city. We liked the house, but I didn't get that excited feeling that indicated it could be our home, so the search will continue.

However this jaunt did provide us with an opportunity to take another look at the area. The weather was slightly less sparkling than on our first visit, but I'm happy to say Wells was confirmed as one of our favoured locations for retirement. We hadn't managed to walk down Vicars' Close on our first trip so I was pleased to visit this architectural gem which is believed to be the oldest purely residential street in Europe - certainly it is the most complete and untouched medieval street in the UK. It was constructed in the 14th century to house members of the Cathedral's choir and between 2022-28 will undergo a programme of restoration and preservation.

Entrance to one of the cottages on Vicars' Close, adjacent Wells Cathedral

Vicars' Close near Wells Cathedral - the UK's most intact medieval street

The Rib - a charming cottage near Wells Cathedral, in which author
Elizabeth Gouge lived as a child

Wells Town Hall

Some lovely antiques shopping to be had in Wells

Some of you will already be aware that our social activities have been curtailed in recent months due to Kevin undergoing treatment for prostate cancer. Thankfully, after nearly six weeks of intensive radiotherapy (every day - Monday to Friday) and surgery to implant radioactive seeds, we are hopeful no further treatment will be required. Kevin is impatient for his recovery period to be over so he can return to cycling, which he has greatly missed over the past six months.

On a particularly long day of appointments for Kevin at Royal Surrey Hospital, in mid February I took the opportunity to nip into London for the day, before returning to collect him in the late afternoon. We really have been blessed with some fabulous weather so far this year, and it was a delight to wander around the city in the bracing air and winter sunshine. I visited the Courtauld Gallery in Somerset House, then walked all the way down The Strand, past my former workplace (Australia House), and all the way along Fleet Street and Ludgate Hill. At St Paul's I took the Millennium Bridge across the Thames to the Tate Modern, and then walked along the southern embankment of the Thames back to Waterloo. After many weeks of relative confinement to Frensham, wandering about the city with no timetable was a real treat.

Winter morning light at Southbank, London

The Courtauld Gallery's famous staircase, Somerset House, London
(viewed from above)

The view upwards towards the lantern window
- staircase at the Courtauld Gallery, Somerset House, London

My favourite part of the Courtauld Gallery was The Bloomsbury Room.
I love this portrait of Nina Hamnett by Roger Fry (1917)

St Paul's Cathedral glimpsed through the railings of the Millennium Bridge, with the Thames below

Meanwhile, in Frensham the signs of spring have been everywhere - narcissi, snowdrops and crocus abound in the woods, in people's gardens, on the commons and on roadside verges. The bluebells will follow, probably making an appearance in the next few weeks. It is a glorious time of year as nature wakes from its wintry slumber.

We are currently spending a couple of days in Broadstairs on the Kent coast, celebrating Kevin's birthday and the end of his treatment. Stay tuned for a post!

Until next time,

- Maree  xo